Green-up time

I didn’t put the subject in the title, because I didn’t want you running away. It’s broccoli, but it’s OK, really, this is good. I got this tip, in the same month, from two very good chefs (Shaun Hill and Brett Graham), and it’s terrific.

I was taught that broccoli stalks were bitter and tough, and should always be discarded, so I did. Now that I know it isn’t true, I could weep over all the food I’ve wasted—this shows the virtue of tasting always, and challenging the

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