In Urbino, we were in search of vincisgrassi, the world’s most luxurious lasagna. Killing time before lunch at
On the shore of Lake Bolsano, north of Rome, we went to Il Purgatorio, where we were told the chef did a lot of unusual pasta dishes. We got lost, and arrived as he was closing up–he waved us away, but his wife saw
Patrick in my arms, smacked the chef on
the arm and glared at him, then beckoned us inside. We ate a fabulous lunch,
joined by the two of them. We got some good cooking tips, and two recipes.
Moral of the story, obviously: Bring the kids.