RECIPE: Roast Turkey Stuffed with Pancetta and Herbs

If you want to do Thanksgiving a little differently, why not look to Italy? Italians took to turkey as no other Europeans did, probably because they saw the bird the way that artists see blank spaces, as something to project their imaginations onto. (The French were reluctant, confused about its origins. Brillat-Savarin said it had to have come from America: “Note the appearance of the bird, which is clearly outlandish.”) In Italy, you see it on menus  of even the most exalted restaurants,